“It’s Not Enough For Favas To Be In Season”

So says the chef of the American Academy in Rome, as quoted in the NYT article yesterday, “The Seasons Within.” And it is surely true that early-season and late-season tomatoes have different flavors and textures. But “microseasonality”? Has the new gilded age no limit on slower-than-thou invidiousness? Must all radishes that are a day too early or too late be discarded? The article concludes with the commonsense reminder that “of course, being fully attuned to the seasons within seasons is nothing new. It’s a traditional way of relating to agriculture and getting the most out of food cycles.” Still, this “latest paradigm for chefs and home cooks” is bound to provide a rationale for new levels of winner-take-all dining. Perhaps there will be an upside: the truly elite will decide that food is only worthy of them one day a month, and their principled suicides will free up perfectly delicious leftover tomatoes for the rest of us.


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