So says the chef of the American Academy in Rome, as quoted in the NYT article yesterday, “The Seasons Within.” And it is surely true that early-season and late-season tomatoes have different flavors and textures. But “microseasonality”? Has the new gilded age no limit on slower-than-thou invidiousness? Must all radishes that are a day too early or too late be discarded? The article concludes with the commonsense reminder that “of course, being fully attuned to the seasons within seasons is nothing new. It’s a traditional way of relating to agriculture and getting the most out of food cycles.” Still, this “latest paradigm for chefs and home cooks” is bound to provide a rationale for new levels of winner-take-all dining. Perhaps there will be an upside: the truly elite will decide that food is only worthy of them one day a month, and their principled suicides will free up perfectly delicious leftover tomatoes for the rest of us.